Saturday, September 13, 2014

Denmark Diaries: A Busy Week, Indeed!

My week has been busy to say the least, and perhaps a little chaotic. Last Wednesday (the 3rd of September) , after sitting in a meeting that had me staying later at the office than intended, I returned to my desk to gather my things and a rather excited Lars approached me. Carsten S. (Rotary Club Carsten, not Christina's father Carsten) had called, and told me that I "needed to be in Vejle by 6:00pm." Upon arriving home, Ella knew nothing about what Carsten had told Lars, so we were sort of running around like chickens without heads trying to figure out what the plan was.

I feel very short, and
I'm 5'7"
Eventually it was sorted out, and I hopped a train to Vejle. Upon arrival, Carsten S's wife Kirsten picked me up at the train station and then took me back to their beautiful home. I hung around for a while, talking to their son Jon. Then their other son Lasse and their exchange student (staying with them from Mexico) Victor came in. They told me about where we would be going. We were going on a picnic at this place called Tørskind Grusgrav, a sculpture park with the work of Robert Jacobsen. Formerly a gravel park/pit thing, Jacobsen transformed the landscape with the help of his former student Jean Clareboudt, into a place of sculptures made of iron, wood, and concrete. Thematically, they are supposed to reflect the transition of the sun's path over the night sky. Unfortunately, I didn't really get a whole lot pictures of the sculptures. They were interesting, but better seen in person.

However, there was another reason we were there. There was a car show. Now, if you know anything about me at all, you'll know I love cars. Old cars, new cars, exotic cars, muscle cars...and there was no shortage of cars at this car show. What was great about this one was that it was European, so I got to see a couple American classics, yes, but I got to see a lot of cars I'd never seen before -- The European classics. Old Morgans, Triumphs, Fiats, MGs, Saabs, something called a NSU, and something that looked like it belonged in a Bond movie (or maybe it was in one). I had a blast taking pictures, and Lasse and Jon had some fun trying to photobomb. The evening ended with a photograph in front of/on one of the sculptures...a photo that makes me feel very short compared to the three handsome boys I'm standing with.



On Thursday the 4th I had a bit of an existential moment. I had been invited to go see Den Lille Havfrue, aka The Little Mermaid on stage. The show was professionally done, with Broadway-style stage tricks and vibrant, exciting costumes (some of which I'm positive you wouldn't see in a children's play in the States--Ursula's electric eels, I'm talking to you), and the cast was amazing. Ursula, man, what a set of pipes on her. During the rendition of "Part of Your World," that was when I had my moment. It was a surreal one, being surrounded by Danes, in Denmark, watching a play in Danish that was made famous by a Dane. I started to cry. It was all very real, but I also knew at that moment I had grown into a different person over the course of the past month. I was, er, am more confident I think, and I had/have come so far. It was a small moment, but an amazing one.


Århus City Hall,
built 1941
Following work on Friday the 5th, I went to Århus to visit my friend Arense. She came up behind me in the train station as I was replying to a text message and startled me, but once my surprise wore off I gave her a big hug. It had been only a few weeks since I'd seen her, and I've only known her a couple months, but I've been told that if you make friends with a Dane, you are friends for life. She gave me a quick tour of her city, a beautiful city full of college-age culture. The bit I found particularly interesting was the bit about the City Hall. It was built by Danish architects Arne Jacobsen and Erik Møller. They didn't want to build a tower, because after all, why would you want a tower if all city halls have towers. They gave in to popular demand, however, and eventually constructed one. While I'm not sure if it is true since I like to fact check, but I was told that everything in the building was designed by the designers, down to the silverware.






After a lengthy dinner full of conversation, me, Arense, and her boyfriend Bjørn ventured out into the night to take a "light tour" of buildings illuminated in fancy ways. We saw the coolest stop first, an old brewery illuminated from the inside and timed to music, such as Massive Attack's "Teardrop" which was playing when we walked in. We stayed and watched for a while before moving on to other illuminated buildings throughout the city. Although, as previously mentioned, none were as impressive as the former. There was a mirror installation we had walked under before that had been lit up as well, and that was very cool to see. It was crowded when we got there during the night time, as it was offering shelter from the rain that had started coming down.


The next morning was much like dinner the night before, except Arense's voice had somehow disappeared. Breakfast was full of conversation, a fantastic meal, and good company. I was out by 11am, Arense and Bjørn had a food festival to go to and I had a weekend with Carsten S's family to attend. So I boarded a train once more in the direction of Vejle, trying not to fall asleep and miss my stop or wind up in a detached train car. But I made it to Vejle, and once again Kirsten picked me up. Instead of going right to herhouse, she took me about Vejle. We went to the pedestrian mall,  into the churches St. Nicolai (13th cent.) and St. Norbert's (1924), out to another more modern church that I can't recall the name of built in 1959 (very reflective of Danish design), to their family church also built in the 50s, and up to the iconic Vejle windmill, built 1890, where I not only got to experience my first windmill, but also got a wonderful vantage point of the city, since it sat atop one of the steepest hills in either the area.


My day in Vejle ended with Carsten's family taking me up to the top of a hill, were we could see the fjord and where we would eat dinner. We sat and listened to the storm come in, with the rumbles of thunder getting closer and a few drops of rain, but then fading away much to our relief. It was a nice evening, filled with many laughs.


On Sunday the 6th, I was up bright and early at Carsten & Kirsten's home to take our day trip up to Skagen, the northernmost point of Denmark. It was a rainy drive, and the rain lasted almost all day so I didn't get to see the color difference of the two seas as I was hoping. For those who don't know, Skagen is where the North and Baltic Seas converge, but due to different water densities, they cannot mix so there is a split in the water. Despite the grey, I was able to identify where they met based on what was wavy and what was flat. That being said, we were fortunate enough that it stopped raining pretty much the exact amount of time we needed to walk the 2k or so out to the end, and the 2k back because the usual tractor transports had stopped running.

 Besides walking out to the end of Denmark, I smashed my toe so hard I thought I had broken it, learned a little bit about Denmark's tactics in WW2 in trying to sabotage the Germans, but also discovered my love for the Danish artist Laurits Tuxen at the Skagen Art Museum. His works were beautifully rendered, detailed and full. However, I thought it was curious how sometimes he chose to make the faces relatively messy and seemingly incomplete compared to the rest of the painting. I theorized, after reading that he learned from his teacher to omit details that didn't add to the work, that he left out faces sometimes because they would neither add nor subtract from the complexity of the piece. I thought that was interesting, and wish I had the money and weight in my suitcase to buy his book. I also saw PS Krøyer paintings, even one that I had recognized from my studies, and the two Ancher artists, Anna and Michael.

That day we also saw the Skagen Kirke (yes, another church). This one was different than the other Danish churches I'd seen so far, but that was probably because it was built centuries after in 1910. It didn't have a "closed altar" (I don't know how else to describe it), and it had balconies. We also saw the Buried Church aka Saint Laurence Church. The earliest information on it dates back to 1387. According to the sign, "In 1785 Danish King Christian VII gave permission for the church to be closed, as it was no longer possible to protect it from drifting sand." The church tower, which dates from the 15th century, was left after the church was demolished to act as a sea mark and whitewashed in 1816. That landmark was actually underwhelming, but hey, I can say I've seen it. I had a rather enjoyable day with Carsten's family and Victor (the Mexican exchange student). Me and the two boys (Jon was not with us) goofed off and teased each other. The city itself was very quaint, composed mostly of old yellow houses with white trim and red roofs. It smelled at worst, like rotting crabs, and at most the mild odor of ocean fish. Despite the pungent fish odor, it was a very cute town indeed, even if nothing was open because tourist season was over. The whole day was another setup for a great joke: A Dane, an American, and a Mexican are walking through an empty tourist town...

I think that about sums up the touristy side of things...

Work related: On 9/10 I handed the first draft of my 106-page manual to the CEO. Now I just need to wait on his instructions, and fuss with the section dividers. Continuing to work on the internal communication campaign.

I'll try to get another post in this week. I went to Sophie and Christian's school music and I'm going whale watching on Sunday (the 14th)...but we'll see what happens and how much I procrastinate.

Other observations that I seem to neglect:

  • If you want ice, forget it. No ice for you (Made the ice bucket challenge difficult)
  • No window screens. While there are less smaller bugs, there are:
  • Lots of really big spiders, and I don't like that at all.
  • There are almost always dividers in doorways between rooms on the floor. I still haven't figured this out, and still trip over them constantly. 
  • Liability seems to be different. If you don't lock something down, it's your fault and insurance won't pay for it. At least, that's what I've been told. I find that very interesting if that's a Danish thing. Like way back in the beginning, on my second day or so, I was told that if you don't lock your bike, insurance won't cover it. How would insurance know if you locked it or not?
  • Cars Part 1: Cars are so expensive here in Denmark. About 3-4 times what they would be in the US. A Mazda6 would cost $76,000
  • Cars Part 2: I like seeing all the American brands with cars that we don't have in the states, like the Ford Ka and the Ford Mondeo. 
  • The flagpoles in every yard, and flags are used for well, everything. (Did I mention this already). I thought the US was a patriotic country... 
I guess another thing, more self-reflective than anything, is how much I am struggling to deal with my introversion here. I am very self conscious about it, especially living with a family that is not used to my ways (or maybe they are by now). Being around people exhausts me. People of any kind drain my energy--friends, family, coworkers, the public, and I need to recharge and spend time alone. I try to find a balance of spending time with the family and, well, being a recluse. That is very much a challenge, and I'm trying to monitor it, I do often find myself worrying if the family thinks it's because I don't like them or something, which is absolutely not the case. I love the family. They are great to be around. They're friendly and tease me, they make me laugh every time we chat, they have provided for me and shown me the country and cultural ways and are patient with my ignorance and questions. I am learning so much under their guidance and in their home. I don't think I could have asked for a better family. But I still am self-conscious about my reclusive personality, and wonder if I will ever find the perfect balance or if it is simply just part of the struggle of being an introvert. 

Well, I think that's enough rambling for now. I hope this post made sense, it's taken me a few days to write it...well, the writing was easy, it was editing all the HDR photos that took all the time.

Until next time!

E






Can't take a photo without either Lasse
or Jon sneaking in a face.

Like I said (Jon)... The sculpture Tycho Brahe
at  Tørskind Grusgrav by Robert Jacobsen


A little bit of hilarious mixed with the classy
An old classic Morgan





My first Danish sunset




Århus mirror installation


St. Nikolai Church, 13th. cent.

St. Nikolai Church, 13th. cent.

St. Norbert's Catholic Church, 1924

St. Norbert's Catholic Church, 1924


St. Norbert's Catholic Church, 1924

St. Norbert's Catholic Church, 1924

A man playing 4 instruments at once.
"I'm just proving to the world men can multitask!"
he said to me.

I don't know what this one was called,
but it was cool. 1959, I think,

Carsten's family's church, also built
in the 50s. The altar painting represents
the tree of life.


Vejle Rådhus (City Hall)

Thank you Lasse

A World War 2 bunker(?). "Free rooms!"

Skagen Grey Light, 1858

Two seas converging. On the left, the North Sea (calm),
on the right you have the Baltic Sea (wavy)

Lasse, Kirsten, Carsten, Me, Victor

Standing at the back of where
the sanctuary would have been at
Sct. Laurentii Kirke aka The Buried Church

The Buried Church

Skagen Kirke, 1910

Skagen Kirke, 1910
Laurits Tuxen's "The Drowned Boy
 is Brought Ashore," 1913
Tuxen's "The North Sea in Stormy Weather.
After Sunset. Højen," 1909

PS Krøyer's "Sommeraften på
Skagen Sønderstand," 1892










Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Denmark Diaries: Long Overdue

Hello everyone,

This is a post long overdue. My weeks have been busy. I've been working mostly, but also some exploring and traveling tossed into the mix. So let's start with the former:

Work has been really great. I've been designing a 80-something page employee handbook. Well, it was 80-something pages when I started, but now It's pushing 100 because of the documents people keep handing me. It's tedious, but for the most part pretty relaxing. Once I figured out the design, it is merely an act of putting it into place on every page. Now, certainly I spend most of my day fighting with InDesign, but in terms of the actual design, it's pretty routine and relaxing. I like that. There's lots of text to work with, but the biggest time-suck is actually the many many graphs, infographics, charts, and tables I have to redesign, work in, and format. 

I've also been helping to update packaging files, sales packets, and a "Did You Know" internal campaign which has been fun so far. My first piece for that was actually sent off to print today, so I'll make sure to take one with me when I get one done. 

I've had the opportunity to not only go on a photoshoot for the products at the studio (the guy had a Hasselblad--dreamy sigh), but I also go to take some pictures on another shoot too. 

My coworkers are wonderful people, and they have made sure to include me in conversation and post-lunchtime walks. My boss/coworker Lars is really great. He's a pleasure to sit next to. He's a wonderful person and a fantastic designer, and is very easy to talk to. We talk about music a lot, sharing artists and songs often, and he has a great sense of humor to boot. 

Middelfart Kirke is being
renovated, but unfortunately
for me I cannot see what is
under the scaffolding.
My family has also been amazing. The kids are slowly, but surely, improving their English, and my Danish slower still at improving, but happening all the same. It's definitely not an easy language to learn, that's for sure, but I just recently discovered a website that teaches you for free and that's been elevating my vocabulary level. We have ridden our bicycles to the beach. Christian and I went last week and we discovered a beautiful purple starfish. Sophie took me on another bike tour of the town, and showed me where she sings in the church choir. Middelfart Kirke (Lutheran, like most of the other Danish churches I have encountered), her church, is a beautiful brick church built sometime in the 1200s. There are ships hanging from the barrel vaults, a result of the name (or something of the like) of that particular part of the church being called a ship (or skivet). There were also some whale bones hanging on the back wall of the sanctuary, which had a sign that looked like it read that they were from a whale that was caught in the local fjord or something, but truthfully I forgot to look it up, and I'm too tired and/or too lazy to do it now. 


I actually attended church with Sophie by myself last weekend (8/24) to hear her sing, which was an overall interesting experience. As an culturally Jewish American atheist with a Roman Catholic father, it was all sorts of different. Everything was in Danish, but there wasn't any Latin of any kind. At least I can sing along with Latin! Even the priest(?) was dressed differently from what I'd ever seen before. He was very "Shakespearean" I suppose, with the long black robe, buttoned up the front, white cuffs on the sleeves, and a collar that looked like it belonged to good old Billy himself, or on a dog. See my notes for a visual.

Something else I got to experience during that service that I had never done so before was a baptism. There were four baptisms that day. I wish I could have understood a little of what was being said, but it was nice all the same. I had a really nice time listening to Julie sing, listening to Danish, and just relaxing in a beautiful old building.

Koldinghus Palace (and evidently,
I need to clean my sensor)
The day before, on Saturday, the 23rd of August, Ella and Sophie took me out to Kolding and Koldinghus. While built in 1268 by the Danish King Erik Glipping to guard the border between Denmark and the Duchy of Schleswig, the oldest parts of the castle that are still preserved are from the 15th century.  According to the pamphlet I'm stealing information from, the castle was rebuilt during the 1500s as a palace, with the tower added in 1600, and in the 1720s it was rebuilt again. In 1808, Spanish soldiers staying in the palace caused a fire that left the castle severely devastated. Reconstruction didn't begin until 1890, and today Koldhinghus is a museum for the castle's history, but also a stunning gallery and exhibition space that creates a dynamic juxtaposition between the ancient and the contemporary.


This past weekend I returned to Copenhagen for a couple hours. My friend Christina was returning from her internship in the USA (and living with my family for a couple of days in the beginning). Her parents invited me a long to welcome her home, but she didn't know I was going to be there. The surprise was wonderful and I got to spend the next day or so with her and her parents. Her parents, before her arrival, took me around Copenhagen to see the sights that I didn't really get to see on my last trip. They took me up to The Little Mermaid, which I only got to see from behind last time, and the Queen's Palace and the other residences of the Danish Royal Family. Christina's [step] father Carsten was a former member of the royal guard, so he knew all the tips and tricks and times that were important to the guard. It was funny for me, when he noticed that the flag was up and then there was not a very big change for the guard, he started asking why the flags were up if no one was home! (But then we saw the crown prince drive in...) He also teased a guard he had pegged as a new guy. The guy smiled at that.



Danish hot dogs, with all
the traditional fixins
After picking the very surprised Christina up, we went out to this hot dog stand behind the airport where you could watch the planes land and take off. I had made a statement earlier that day about how Danish hot dogs could not possibly be better than American hot dogs...but I was wrong.  They were the best hot dogs I had ever tasted, and they were far superior to the Icelandic pyslur.

Regardless of our short trip to Copenhagen, it was great to see Christina again. Once back at her parent's house in Skivet (yep, there's the boat again), Carsten took me out to Jelling to see the home of Viking Harald Bluetooth. Here I saw where he and another Viking king, King Gorm, were buried under a giant mound of dirt with a Dannebrog mounted on top. Carsten told me that the the bluetooth [for your phone] was invented by the Danes, named after the aforementioned king, and that the symbol was taken from one of his runes.

The stone of the left is King Harald's
Rune Stone. The one on the right
belongs to King Gorm
Outside the Jelling Kirke (Church), built in 1100 (with an addition that seems to be built in 1813, although none of the literature I found actually mentioned this), there were two large stones that had runes made by King Bluetooth. I learned (did I learn or was it said by my boss Lars?) that they had an architecture contest to see who could build a nice display for the stones to keep them from being defaced, as they had been previously, and to keep them from being eroded by the weather. The solution was one that was definitely reminiscent of Danish design, but also functional. Surrounding this area were large white posts. These tastefully designed posts marked King Harald's palisade. In Viking times, they were three/four meter oak posts, standing side-by-side and totaling 1.4 km.

Following the brief trip to Jelling, Carsten took me to an other place I don't actually know the name of (was it Ravning Enge?). Here there was a partial reconstruction of a bridge the King Harald and the Vikings had built to cross the water that had covered the land when they ruled it. Because the Vikings were merchants (not just ruthless pillagers), this bridge was built for the purpose of trade. The bridge was showed in various stages of construction as it would have been built during the Viking times.





Hotel Haraldskær
After seeing the bridge, Carsten and I returned back to their house for a lovely evening of great food, friends, fondue, and fun. The next day, Christina, Christina's mother, and I went out for a walk to explore Skivet. Skivet appears to be one of Denmark's hillier regions, and it is quite lovely indeed. First they took me to the hotel where Christina's mother works. The historic building, called the Hotel Haraldskær, was built in 1763 (as indicated by the clock face on the front of the building). The basement area held that eerie 18th century demeanor and musty smell. There were additions added to the building around the year 1918, but they tried to maintain the integrity of the historic building. The historic parts of the building still had the 1700s decor and such in places. At the hotel, we stuffed our pockets with hazelnuts to crack at home. After the hotel, we continued on to the old church where Christina had been confirmed long ago. We didn't get to go inside, contrary to it being a Sunday afternoon and the rumor that all Danish churches are always open. But based on its exterior appearance, it was likely from the early centuries of the millennium, much like its other Danish counterparts.

My time this weekend with Christina ended with spontaneous duet of "Let Her Go" by Passenger. We recorded it on my phone without much practice, so it's full of ambient noise, flubs, and coughs, but you can listen to it here anyway!



Other observations about Denmark so far:

  • Wedding rings on right hand
  • Very few engagement rings
  • No colored walls. Only white walls, with color applied through paintings or other things attached to the wall
  • Calenders start on Mondays. After consulting some of my art friends in different countries, this is pretty much a European thing. 
  • Everyone is named Lars or Carsten. Partially sarcastic comment here. 

That about sums up my last couple weeks....off to the next adventure! (Or pages in the manual, you know...whichever).

Until next time,
E




Koldinghus
Koldinghus


Koldinghus
Koldinghus

Koldinghus



Sankt Nikolai Kirke,
Kolding, 1200s

Sankt Nikolai Kirke,
Kolding, 1200s

Sankt Nikolai Kirke,
Kolding, 1200s

Middelfart Kirke
Middelfart Kirke
Middelfart Kirke
Middelfart Kirke

\
The Royal Houses, CPH
The Royal Guard
The Marble Church, CPH
The Key To The Future


St. Alban's Church,
CPH

Jelling Kirke

Jelling Kirke


Jelling Kirke
Sydhøj, Aka The South Mound


The Palisade Markers
Skivet Kirke, 1200s?

Hotel Haraldskær

Hazelnuts picked at
 Hotel Haraldskær